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No. 6l4,703. Patented Nov. 22, I898.

J. L. DELORY.

ADJUSTABLE GARMENT CHART.

(Application filed Dec. 29, 1397. w (No Model.) 2 $hoeta-Shoet 2.

IIIIIT'I in France, No. 273,276, dated December 18,

' section taken 011 the line 2 z of Fig. 2.

JEAN LOUIS DELORY,

ADJUSTABLE GA OF BLOIS, FRANCE.

RM ENT-CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 614,703, dated November22, 1898. Application filed December 29, 1897. Serial No. 664,380. (Nomodel.)

To a whom, it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JEAN LOUIS DELORY, a citizen of France, residing atBlois, Loir-et- Cher, France, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Apparatus for Drafting Mens Garments, (for which I haveobtained Letters Patent in Great Britain, No. 13,711, dated June 3,1897; in Germany, No. 98,647, dated August 19, 1897; in Belgium, No.132,241, dated December 3, 1897; in Switzerland, No. 19,012, datedAugust 5, 1898;

1897, and in Austria, No. 48/4,243, dated August 6, 1898, filed July 7,1898,) of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to an improved apparatus for use in tracing theparts of mens garmentssuch as coats, Waistcoats, and the lll(e'tl1d. isso constructed as to give by a simple displacement and adjustment of itsparts the fundamental points or lines for a complete tracing of theparts of such garments on cloth or other suitable material of which theyare to be made. The said apparatus comprises three distinct parts orsets of adjustable bars, all of which are marked with a scale, thepurpose whereof is hereinafter indicated. The first of these piecesserves for the tracing or setting out of the front parts of garments,the second for those of the back, and the third for the small sidepieces, where such are used.

For deformed persons it is only necessary to set the apparatus at ahigher or lower sign or number, as hereinafter fully explained.

In order that my invention may be readily understood, I will describethe same fully, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which--Figure 1 shows the first piece, that for tracing the front; Fig. 2, thesecond piece, that for the back; and Fig. 3, the third piece, that forthe sides. Fig. 4 is a change-bar for use in place of that shown in Fig.2. Fig. 5 is a section taken on the line as m of Fig. 1, and Fig. 6 is atransverse section taken on the line y y of Fig. 2. Fig. 7 is alongitudinal Figs.

5, 6, and 7 are drawn to a larger scale than the previous figures.

Referring to the drawings, it will be seen that the front part, Fig. 1,consists of a main hollow bar or rod A, containing a sliding bar a,adapted to be retained in any desired position by a set-screw a? Thisbar A is provided at a short distance from the lower end with a hollowlimb, branch, or arm B, havin g an angular sliding bar 1) and set-screwb*. Upon the angular limb b of the bar bis a slide 0, with set-screw 0*,having arms 0 and 0 the former of which is hollow and is provided with aset-screw c to enable a sliding bar 0 having curved arms 0 c", to be adjusted as may be required. The arm c is solid and is provided with curvedarms 0 0 At a short distance from the upper end of the bar A is a hollowbranch or limb D, (having a set-screw d*,) in which slides a bar d, toone extremity of which is pivoted a curved bar d by a pin 01 This bar isprovided with an index or pointer 01 near its pivoted end adapted to beset to any of the three radial lines H, 0,.L on the sliding bar d, thepurpose of which will be hereinafter pointed out.

The uppermost end of the bar A forms a hollow branch or limb E and isprovided with a set-screw 6* for receiving a sliding bare, to which ispivoted at e a slightly-curved rod 6 To the lower end of the sliding bara is piv oted at a a hollow bar F, having set-screws ff, the former ofwhich serves to fix an adj ustable sliding bar f while the latter servesto fix a similar bar f The bar f carries at its outer end aslightly-curved rod f pivoted thereto by a pin f It will be seen fromthe drawings that the two bars f f are arranged side by side in thehollow bar F and are capable of being slid in opposite directions theone to the other.

The part for the back (shown at Fig. 2) comprisesa hollow main'bar G,provided with a set-screw g, in which slides a bar g, carrying at itslower end a rectangular holl'ow arm g having a set-screw 9 serving tohold an adjustable bar 9 formed with a slightly-curved arm The hollowbar G is provided near its upper end with a hollow branch or limb M,furnished with a set-screw m and carrying a sliding bar m, terminatingin an angularlydisposed rod m A sleeve N, adapted to be adjusted on thebar G, is fixed in position by a set-screw n, and in order to preventthis screw scratching or defacing the scale 011 the bar G abearing-plate n, Fig. 7, is interposed between the foot of saidset-screw and bar. One end of this plate at is bent at right angles toform a stop, and it has at its other end a screw 71 for preventing itbecoming detached from the adjustable sleeve N. Extending at rightangles from this sleeve is a hollow branch or limb n furnished with aset-screw n retaining a sliding bar of. The outer end of this bar isprovided with an angular arm at, having a set-screw n for holding anadjustable bar u The outer end a of this latter is curved, as shown inFig. 2, and is used for tracing the parts of a coat, while for tracing ajacket or a waistcoat the change-piece, Fig. &, is substituted therefor.

The part represented in Fig. 3 for the side pieces of coats consists ofa hollow bar P, whose upper end P is curved, and said bar is providedwith set-screws p p at its extremities. The end P is fitted with asuitably-curved bar 19 having a curved arm 12. The lower end of the barP receives an adjustable bar 29", having a rectangular hollow arm 1),furnished with a set-screw p for holding a sliding bar 13 whose outerend carries a slightly-curved arm 19*.

It may here be mentioned that the three parts are shown in the drawingsin their relative posit-ions to each other, but that in practice theywould be placed as near as possible to each other, with only sufficientspace between them to allow for the passage of the tailors chalk.

In order to use the apparatus, say for tracing the body part of a coat,the pieces shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 3 are laid on the cloth or othermaterial from which the coat is to be made and are then adjusted in thefollowing manner, according to the measurements previously obtained inthe ordinary way with the usual measuring-tape.

It is to be understood that the cloth is double, as usual, and that theapparatus represents the pieces required for one half of the coat, theother half being identical.

Now supposing the measurements taken to be-chest, nineteen inches,one-half being nine and one-half inches; collar, eighteen inches; lengthof front down to waist, seventeen and one half inches; length of backdown to waist,eighteen inches; girth of waist, thirty-four inches,one-half being seventeen inches; length from armpit to hip, ten inches;armhole, nineteen inches. The bar (1' in the hollow limb D and the bar nin the branch or limb n are then both adjusted to that division on thescale representing nine and one-half inches or half the chest measurement and are retained thereat by tightening the set-screws (1* n. Thebars a and m are then drawn out as far as the divisions marked 18,representing the measurement of the collar. The bar a is adjusted to thelength at front down to the waist, being here seventeen and onehalfinches, and the bar g to eighteen inches for the back. The bars 1) and pare next adjusted to ten and one-half inches, representing the lengthfrom the armpit to the hip. The barsf f", 17 and g" are now adjusted toseventeen inches, or one-half the girth at the waist, and the limb F isthen turned on its hinge pin or pivot a, so as to bring the lowest pointof the arm f level with p. The bars c and n are next adjusted to thenumeral l9 for the armhole, and the points 19 and n are placed adjacentto the numeral 19 of the scale on the curved arms 0 0 The bar cl isturned on its pivot (1 so as to set the pointer (Z to the central line0, if the person for whom the coat is intended has ordinary shoulders.For persons having high or low shoulders the lines II or L instead of Oare used accordingly. It now only remains to set the curved rods 0 and fby sight, according as whether the person is stout or not. The lines aretraced on the cloth by following the contour of the apparatus andcompleting them from point to point, as indicated by dot-and-dash lines.The lines traced along the curved arms p 1) and n" g form the side seamwith the back. formed persons the bars a and g and rods 0 and f are, asbefore, adjusted to the required measurements, and the bar cl is set tohigh or low shoulders, as the case may be.

For tracing a jacket the piece, Fig. 8, is not required, and the upperend of the armf (marked V is brought to a level with the bar 9 while thecurved bar a" is replaced by that shown in Fi 4 for the side seam.

It is thus evident that the apparatus can be set in a few moments to anymeasurement and to suit various forms of garments, thus obviating thenecessity of having a large number of patterns, while at the same timethe chance of making mistakes in setting out is reduced to a minimum.

Having now particularly described and explained the nature of my saidinvention, and in what manner the same may be employed, I declare thatwhat I claim is- 1. In an apparatus for drafting mens garments, asection for tracing the front part of the garment, consisting of ahollow main bar A provided with the hollow arms B, D and E, limbs a, b,(l and 6 adapted to enter said bar and arms, means for securing saidlimbs in said bar and arms, bars attached to said limbs for indicatingthe position of the cut for the front of the garment, the position ofthe armhole, and the position of the lower edge of the front of thegarment, and a shoulder-bar pivoted at one end to the section and havingits opposite end free, whereby said shoulderbar is adapted to be movedindependently for indicating the position of the shoulder-cut,substantially as set forth.

2. In an apparatus for drafting mens garments, a section for tracing thefront part of the garment, consisting of a hollow main bar For de- Aprovided with the hollow arms B, D and E, limbs a, b, (l and e adaptedto enter said bar and arms, means for securing said limbs in said barand arms, bars attached to said limbs for indicating the position of thearmhole, the position of the shoulder-cut, and the position of the cutfor the lower edge of the front of the garment, and curved rods, the onepivoted at one end to said latter bar and the other to the limb e, andadapted by direction toward each other to produce the curve for thefront of the garment, substantially as set forth.

3. In an apparatus for drafting mens garments, a section for tracing theback part of the garment, consisting of a hollow main bar G providedwith the hollow arms M and n limbs g, m and n adapted to enter saidhollow bar and arms, said limbs g and n being provided with hollowportions at their outer ends, angular limbs g and 01* adapted to entersaid hollow portions, means for securing the limbs in the main bar andhollow arms, means for securing said angular limbs in said hollowportions, and a substitution-piece adapted for insertion into the hollowportion of the limb of, the angle of said substitution-piece beinggreater than the angle of the angular limb or, whereby said apparatus isadapted for drafting a vest or waistcoat, substantially as set forth.

l. In an apparatus for drafting mens garments, a section for tracing theback part of the garment, consisting of a hollow main bar G providedwith the hollow arms M and n limbs g, m and n adapted to enter saidhollow bar and arms said limbs g and n being provided with hollowportions at their outer ends, angular limbs g and n adapted to entersaid hollow portions, means for securing the limbs in the main bar andhollow arms, means for securing said angular limbs in said hollowportions, and an adjusting device connected to the arm n for adjustingsaid arm on the main bar, said adjusting device consisting of a sleeveadapted to slide on the bar G, a setserew in said sleeve, and abearing-plate between said screw and the bar G, said bearingplateextending beyond said sleeve, and a screw for retaining thebearing-plate in position in the sleeve, substantially as set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed myname in presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JEAN LOUIS DELORY.

Witnesses:

EDWARD P. MACLEAN, PAUL PELE.

